Renovation guides

How to remove a toilet, vanity and faucets yourself: step by step

Short answer

To remove a toilet, vanity and faucets, follow the 14 steps below, from “Confirm water and power are off to this room” to “Room is clear and sealed”. Difficulty 2 of 5; for a first-timer, plan on about half a day. Read “When to stop” below before you start.

Draft guide written from standard practice, not yet reviewed by a licensed pro. Follow product labels where they differ.

Disconnect and carry out the toilet, vanity, sink, and faucets, then cap every open supply and plug the drain so nothing leaks and nothing comes up out of the floor.

Difficulty 2 of 5 · about half a day · you can do this

When to stopStop and call a plumber if: the angle stop will not close or keeps weeping after it is closed; the shutoff or the supply nipple turns inside the wall when you put a wrench on it; you find rot, mold, or an active leak under the vanity or behind the toilet; or the toilet flange is cracked or sits below the finished floor. Anything that means opening a wall or re-piping is a licensed plumber's job, not yours. Never disconnect a gas appliance yourself.
See it in your own room — free

Photo of your room, the look you pick, then this guide with the materials counted for your room.

What you need

  • Compression caps for the angle-stop outlets
  • Rubber test plug or expandable drain plug
  • PTFE thread tape
  • Heavy-duty contractor bags
  • Shop towels and a small bucket

Tools

  • Adjustable wrench and channel-lock pliers
  • Basin wrench (the only tool that reaches faucet nuts)
  • Sponge and a wet/dry vac (for emptying the toilet)
  • Putty knife and a utility knife (cutting caulk at the vanity)
  • Drill/driver
  • Oscillating multi-tool (for a seized closet bolt) — $25-35/day (Los Angeles prices; yours scale with your area), or buy an entry-level one
  • Hacksaw or mini hacksaw

Step by step

  1. Step 1 of 14

    Confirm water and power are off to this room

    Confirm water and power are off to this room

    Close the stop under each fixture you are pulling and open the fixture to prove the water stays off — if your plan has the home's water-and-power shut-off job, it did this already. A vanity light or an outlet in the backsplash means the circuit must be dead too.

  2. Step 2 of 14

    Photograph everything before you touch it

    Photograph everything before you touch it

    Under the sink, behind the toilet, the P-trap assembly. You will want to know what was there when you put it back.

  3. Step 3 of 14

    Disconnect the supply lines at the faucet

    Disconnect the supply lines at the faucet

    Bucket underneath. Hold the valve body still with one wrench and loosen the nut with the other — stop at the first sign the pipe turns in the wall. Loosen at the stop first, then at the faucet tailpiece.

  4. Step 4 of 14

    Empty the toilet completely

    Empty the toilet completely

    Close the stop, flush and hold the lever down, then sponge and shop-vac the tank and the bowl until they are dry. A toilet is heavy enough without the water.

  5. Step 5 of 14

    Unbolt the closet bolts and break the seal

    Unbolt the closet bolts and break the seal

    Pop the caps, remove the nuts, then rock the bowl side to side to break the wax. Cut a seized bolt with a mini hacksaw or a multi-tool rather than twisting the porcelain.

  6. Step 6 of 14

    Lift it straight up, then plug the flange immediately

    Lift it straight up, then plug the flange immediately

    Two hands, knees bent, set it on cardboard. Then stuff a large rag into the flange with a corner hanging out, tape over it, or set a test plug. Do this before you take a break.

  7. Step 7 of 14

    Scrape the old wax off the flange

    Scrape the old wax off the flange

    Putty knife until the flange is bare metal or plastic. Bag the wax. Inspect the flange: cracked, or sitting below the finished floor, is a repair to schedule now.

  8. Step 8 of 14

    Drop the P-trap into a bucket

    Drop the P-trap into a bucket

    Loosen the slip nuts by hand where you can. The trap is full of water. Bag it if it is going in the trash.

  9. Step 9 of 14

    Free the sink or top from the vanity

    Free the sink or top from the vanity

    Drop-in sinks: cut the caulk bead at the counter. Undermount: support the bowl from below before you release the clips.

  10. Step 10 of 14

    Cut the caulk and the paint line at the wall

    Cut the caulk and the paint line at the wall

    Utility knife along the top and the sides of the vanity where it meets the wall. This is what keeps the drywall paper intact.

  11. Step 11 of 14

    Back out the cabinet screws and walk it out

    Back out the cabinet screws and walk it out

    Usually two to four screws through the back rail into studs. Two people for anything with a stone top — the top comes off separately when you can.

  12. Step 12 of 14

    Cap every open supply line

    Cap every open supply line

    Put a 3/8 in compression cap (the size of your stop's outlet — check it) on every angle stop: hand tight, then a quarter to half turn with a wrench, per the package. Push-to-connect caps are only for a bare pipe stub. The stop stays closed — two closed things between the water and your room, not one.

  13. Step 13 of 14

    Turn the water back on and watch for ten minutes

    Turn the water back on and watch for ten minutes

    Open the main again so the rest of the unit works, then stand there and look at every cap and stop with a dry paper towel. Any damp spot means it is not done.

  14. Step 14 of 14

    Room is clear and sealed

    Room is clear and sealed

    Everything out, every opening closed.

    Quality check

    • Toilet flange is plugged and taped; no sewer smell
    • Every sink and tub drain opening is plugged
    • Every supply stub is capped and the angle stop is closed
    • Water back on to the rest of the unit, no drips after ten minutes
    • No rot, mold, or leak staining found under the vanity or the toilet
    • Fixtures are out of the room and bagged or stacked for haul-out

Common mistakes

  • Leaving the flange or drain open. Sewer gas fills the unit within hours and debris falls into the drain line. Plug the flange with a rag stuffed tight and taped, or a proper test plug, the moment the toilet is off. Mistake #1 in this task.
  • Lifting a toilet that still has water in it. Even after a flush, a quart or more stays in the bowl and the trap. Sponge and vacuum the bowl and tank dry, or you will pour it on the floor as you tip it.
  • Muscling a stuck supply nut. Old chrome nuts snap and old stops turn in the wall. Back up the valve body with a second wrench and stop if the pipe itself moves.
  • Reusing the wax ring. It never reseals. Scrape it all off the flange and the toilet horn and use a new one.
  • Yanking the vanity off a caulked wall. It takes the drywall paper with it and doubles the drywall task. Cut the caulk line first.
  • Leaving supply lines open to the room. One person turning the water back on for the rest of the unit floods the bathroom. Cap every open line, even if the stop is closed.
Get this job planned for your room

Questions

How long does it take to remove a toilet, vanity and faucets?

Difficulty 2 of 5. For a first-timer, plan on about half a day.

What do I need to remove a toilet, vanity and faucets?

Compression caps for the angle-stop outlets, Rubber test plug or expandable drain plug, PTFE thread tape, Heavy-duty contractor bags, Shop towels and a small bucket. Tools: Adjustable wrench and channel-lock pliers, Basin wrench (the only tool that reaches faucet nuts), Sponge and a wet/dry vac (for emptying the toilet), Putty knife and a utility knife (cutting caulk at the vanity), Drill/driver, Oscillating multi-tool (for a seized closet bolt).

What are the most common mistakes when you remove a toilet, vanity and faucets?

Leaving the flange or drain open. Sewer gas fills the unit within hours and debris falls into the drain line. Plug the flange with a rag stuffed tight and taped, or a proper test plug, the moment the toilet is off. Mistake #1 in this task. Lifting a toilet that still has water in it. Even after a flush, a quart or more stays in the bowl and the trap. Sponge and vacuum the bowl and tank dry, or you will pour it on the floor as you tip it. Muscling a stuck supply nut. Old chrome nuts snap and old stops turn in the wall. Back up the valve body with a second wrench and stop if the pipe itself moves.

When should I stop and call a pro?

Stop and call a plumber if: the angle stop will not close or keeps weeping after it is closed; the shutoff or the supply nipple turns inside the wall when you put a wrench on it; you find rot, mold, or an active leak under the vanity or behind the toilet; or the toilet flange is cracked or sits below the finished floor. Anything that means opening a wall or re-piping is a licensed plumber's job, not yours. Never disconnect a gas appliance yourself.

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